Surfing Brief History

Surf signSurfing - It is generally accepted that Polynesians from Tahiti and Hawaii were the first to enjoy the sensation of surfing (gliding across the face of an unbroken sea wave, standing proud on wooden surfboards crafted from the timber of sacred trees).Fifteenth century 'Meles' (Hawaiian chants sung by elders and passed down generation to generation) record the surfing activities of the great Royal families and other dignitaries of even earlier times.

As most schoolchildren will be aware, Captain James Cook was the first 'civilised' western observer of this pastime in the early 1770s, closely followed by western missionaries, resulting in a suppression of the sport. It is commonly accepted that surfing at the time was outlawed as being an 'unchristian' activity. Some historians now believe however, that it was gambling that was actually outlawed causing the demise of surfing by removing the 'sport' from the activities of the noblemen who used to bet on the size of waves and length of ride.

Either way, surfing disappeared to most of the world for many hundreds of years. In 1915 the legendary Hawaiian Olympic champion, Duke Kahanamoku, while touring the world, introduced the sport of surfing to Australia and America, where previously only glimpses of the sport had been seen. Surfing was eventually introduced to Europe in the early sixties by Australian Lifeguards working at Newquay, although it has been claimed that the first surfers to 'stand up surf' in the UK actually did so at Treyarnon bay in the late 1950s.

The 'surf culture' of the sixties quickly became established often being seen, mistakenly, as a part of the 'hippy' culture of the era. While others were 'turning on' or 'dropping out', surfers were busy ''tuning up' in preparation to 'drop in' on new waves, waves never before ridden. That's not to say that the surfers didn't wholeheartedly embrace the more relaxed lifestyle, they just took a different line.

Polynesians Surfing

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The North Cornwall area has long been recognised as home to many excellent surfers and watermen since the 1950's. Tigger Newling (whose family lived in this area) dominated the embryonic European surfing scene of the late 1960's and '70's while younger brother Mike (who still carries legendary status in Australia) soon became one of the pioneer professional surfers after the family emigrated to Australia in the mid '70s. As a result of his membership of the infamous Newport Plus crew of the late 70's, he and his fellow surfing hot rats (Tom Carroll, Rich Cram, Derek Hynd and a whole bunch of other hot Sydney rippers) became regular visitors, basing themselves in the area when competing in the newly established pro comps in Newquay and France. This continued a pattern of visiting international surfers, originally established by the likes of Keith Paul, Corky Carrol and Bob Cooper in the early '70s and carried on by Johnny Gomes, Taylor Knox and Mike Stewart in recent years. All arriving on 'hearsay' and raising the standards of the local surfers just by being there.

Being within an easy drive (an hour or so) from the City of Plymouth, there has always been a regular trickle of city folk to these beaches. John Copley and Steve Daniel (who both still rip, Steve on a long or short board) spent their school holidays surfing the local breaks to become, along with Paul Russell and Ian Thompson, the stand out surfers in the early '80s. The '80s also saw the rise of Chris Rea (now owner of the Harlyn Surf School), Dave Pearce (acknowledged artist), James Hodson and Plymouth transplants Rob Erskine (owner of Rebound Surf (surf board makers and coaching)) and Steve Nicholls, all of whom still stand out when the surf is pumping (Rob placing 2nd in the 2000 British Masters). A young Mark Bennett led the charge through the '90s along with Tom Mitchell and Nick Lloyd, any of whom draw attention wherever they surf. The standard has been raised again by the likes of Eugene Tollemache (who, bizzarrely, picked up the Chilean Pro-Am title while on a surf expedition there last Winter), Sam Lamiroy, Martin Connolly and the younger ones like Matz Trout and Cheyne.

Surfing in the waves

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So what's the big attraction, you may ask. To the uninitiated it can appear that all there is to surfing is the burgeoning fashion and accessory business, the 'cool' image, the surf slang and general youth culture. And to many coastal visitors that's fine. The very idea of wrestling their way into a cold, damp, wetsuit in order to battle their way through chilling seas just to be dragged back to the beach is shocking. But....when the breeze is coming off the Cornish moors caressing the swells generated by storms a thousand miles out in the Atlantic, when the sun is creating rainbows in the spray of breaking waves, when the Ocean is a translucent turquoise that exists on no painter's palette, that is when only the truly town-hardened could not wish to join those surfers. So if you do happen to visit our beaches, please bear in mind that there is just a little culture and a little history attached to it all.

So you want to learn to surf ?

Surfing is a challenging sport to learn. It’s physically demanding, often frustrating, and you need incredible patience. But ask any good surfer why he or she does it and you’ll get the same reply: because it’s the best sport in the world. Surfing can be exhilarating or relaxing, fast or slow, wild or controlled, competitive or soulful...whatever you want really, because how you ride your board is up to you.

  • If you want to learn to surf, you need to be fit and you must be a good swimmer. Good eyesight is also important; if you have poor vision, wear contact lenses.

Just as beginner skiers spend their first days on the slopes at a ski school, so beginner surfers should spend their first days on the beach at a surf school. Being taught the correct techniques by a properly-qualified instructor will save you hours of frustration. Surf lessons lessons are inexpensive and they’re good fun. Most importantly, it’s vital that you learn about safety in the water: the ocean is a dangerous place to play if you don’t know what you’re doing....

Extreme Sports Cafe has partner surfing schools in several locations for Surfing around the world.. Currently we offer Surfing in North Gran Canaria, South Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Northern Spain, Portugal, Thailand and Brazil. Whether you are an experienced surfer, have a partner who is into surfing, or want to come and learn to surf yourself, our locations for surfing, kite surfing, wind surfing or simply relaxing on the beach are unbeatable..

...May your surf holiday, surf course or surf experience be unforgettable!!!

Surfing Courses and Experiences from Extreme Sports Cafe can be booked online

Surfing in the curve


Who runs our Surfing courses?

Extreme Sports Cafe and it's partners run Surfing courses & experiences in Thailand, MoroccoLanzaroteGran CanariaNorth Spain, Portugal. We are quite confident that we have Europe & Asia covered with a range of exciting, challenging and fun courses or experiences for you to learn to surfing in most parts of the world and will have more surf zones (surfing centers) elsewhere soon...


Where do I take it from here?

You can go on to improve your surfing with more practice and advanced courses allowing you to, take part in competitions worldwide, become an instructor and teach others, join a club and buy your own surfing equipment and go surfing whenever you want. Let us know how we can help...

Surfing books we recommend...

Learn to Surf  By James Maclaren

An introductory guide to the sport of surfing discusses traditional surfing, bodyboarding, and body surfing while offering detailed instructions for the complete beginner.

Conversationally written. No jargon or surf lingo to confuse the beginner. Breaks a potentially difficult and complex subject into easy-to-digest tidbits. Targeted for people who have never so much as picked up a surfboard in their lives, but who are intrigued by this exhilarating sport. Anybody can LEARN TO SURF, let's do it!

Learn to Surf

Surfers's Start-up: Beginner's Guide to Surfing (Start-up Sports) By Doug Werner

This illustrated handbook covers the basics of surfing gear, surfing conditions, safety, surfer etiquette and the history of surfing. Moreover it teaches the novice how to cope: not only with the waves and learning frustrations but with crowds and (gulp!) locals too.

Surfer's Start-up: Beginner's Guide to Surfing (Start-Up Sports)

Fit to Surf: The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning By Rocky Snyder

Not only is surfing an extremely popular male sport, it is the second fasted growing women's sport, behind golfing, and is destined to become even more popular. Surfing is also an extremely demanding sport, requiring absolute fitness for success. No wonder then, that Rocky Snyder sold thousands of copies of this book in its first, self-published edition with minimal promotion and no bookstore distribution. Fit To Surf is filled with black & white photographs and provides valuable information to the reader about how to create a personal conditioning program specific to surfing. The book is designed to help readers build more surfing strength, enhance endurance, increase balance and coordination, and reduce chances of injury. The book contains sample workouts for the home, gym, and on the water.

Fit to Surf: The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning

Surfing Fundamentals By Nat Young

128 pages, including 70,000 words of text, 120 black and white photos and sketches, 10 pages of colour. Now in it's fourth printing this book has taught thousands of people to surf. The inside information from four times World Surfing Champion, Nat Young. All the tips from his 43 years of experience, good clean advise for the beginner and the advanced surfer, including how to ride a Shortboard, Longboard, Bodyboard, kneeboard and Wave Ski.

Surfing Fundamentals 

If you have any questions, then please don’t hesitate to get back to us – we’ll be only too pleased to help. After all, the team at ESC are passionate about our various sporting disciplines – we want you to be, as well!

GET IN TOUCH WITH US NOW TO START YOUR SURFING ADVENTURE…

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